• What are the annual cost savings when compared to forced air heating?
• Explain how I save up to 40%?
• What about air conditioning?
• What types of flooring coverings can be installed over the radiant panels?
• I am worried about a leak, will I have a leak?
• How do I repair a leak in the tubing?
• Are the radiant panels structurally rated for use as a sub floor?
• How long does it take to install the radiant panels and tubing?
• How much will this raise my floor if I'm doing a remodel?
• I'm used to 1/2" tubing being typical for in-floor heating, how is 3/8" installed in comparision?
• Is there a sealer on the radiant panels?
• Is there a guarantee?
• The panels seem kind of thin, can I break them?
• Where are the panels manufactured?
• What else do I need to finish the in-floor heating project?
• How do I make a splice into my current system, I currently have an outdoor wood burner and would like to use KHart Panels in my bathroom?
• Can I install this over concrete, if so how?
• Do I need insulation under my floor for radiant panels to work?

Save up to 40% in annual energy bills.

It's simple. Hot air rises. By keeping the heat down where you need it, you can turn the thermostat down and still be comfortable and save money.

Although there are several options I recommend mini-split air conditioning units. The cooling coil easily mounts on the interior wall while the compressor sits outside. I have found these units to be very efficient.

All carpets, tile, linoleum, hardwood and laminates can be installed. Please refer to my installation manual on the website.

I cannot guarantee no leaks during installation and this is why I have included a leak test in the installation manual.

The tubing can be easily repaired with a 3/8" pex coupling. Repairs are significantly less cost than concrete. Plus you can visibly see the tubing during installation.

No, never use the radiant panels as a sub floor. These are underlayment panels only intended for use above the sub floor or concrete floor.

The align-simple feature on the radiant panels will save time, and the tubing can be easily stepped into the channel with no adhesives. Expect to finish the radiant panel and tubing installation of an average 1500sqft home in 3 days or less.

The material I am using is standard 19/32" OSB. I have found this to measure just over 1/2".

The typical water temperature differential from start to finish on a run should be around 10 to 15 degrees from start to finish. The optimal run for 3/8" is 250 feet. When you bump up to ½" you gain another 80 feet meaning your run length can be 330 feet. I hope my explanation makes sense.

So if you use 3/8" and you have to run 500' you simply add another run/fitting to the manifold. This is shown in the diagram and the process is typical when you have large areas of coverage.

Yes, there is a water resistant sealer on the top of the 19/32" OSB radiant panels.

KHart Panels are guaranteed to outlast the buildings built for them under normal conditions. All manufacturing defects will be immediately refunded or replaced. All undamaged radiant panels can always be returned for a full refund as well.

No, I've tossed, stepped on sideways and dropped the radiant panels without breaking them. They are ready for abuse.

The panels are manufactured with pride in Wisconsin.

You will need 2 manifolds(1 for supply and 1 for return tubing), heat source, circulation pump, heat expansion tank, zone valve and an air removal device.

Please follow my detailed drawing on "How to do it yourself splice for KHart Panels". This will explain where to make the connections and add the ball valves, manifold, circulation pump and zone valve.

Yes, this can be easily installed over concrete. Lay down a vapor barrier first. This can be plastic (over lapped 12 in), tar paper (over lapped 6 in.) or a raised, corrugated plastic material. This will allow any moisture to dry and also provide an insulation barrier from the concrete. The radiant panels can then either be a free floating floor, or be concrete nailed or screwed.

No, the radiant panels do not need insulation underneath to work if there is a basement underneath the floor. The radiant panels are above the sub floor and are in direct contact with the finished floor. Insulation is recommended in applications where the floor underneath has a crawl space and open to the elements. In this case I recommend R24 or greater.